When referring to the
Nature of a country two senses emerge: a description of the features which
could the outward physiognomy of the particular country; or a total of
those features which make up the country's character i.e. its inward
quality. The former includes description of a country's relief, flora,
fauna, hydrography, climate and the like, thus presenting Nature as the
topography of a region. But all these characteristics are embedded in the
latter context, as well, whereby "Nature" is identified with the
"character" - hence, one says: "He is a good-natured man! In this sense,
describing the Nature of a country or, more precisely, of Macedonia, must
be done in compliance with the two streams of interpretation. Therefore, in
this part Macedonia will be displayed through its two topographies:
topography of its land, and topography of its soul! Splitting these two in
the exposition will only occur if conditioned by the need to secure a
systematic and easy flow of the presentation. Otherwise, one should
presume, feel and always bear in mind that a country's Nature is a
synthesis, and even an immediate unity of Nature as a total of the external
features, and Nature - as a mental radiation and singularity of a country's
soul!
Mountains, Rivers; Fields, Lakes
The land in which the Worlds unite contains everything that is contained in the Worlds. Macedonia, as a geographic location, confirms this axiom "in vivo".
It has an explicitly marked shape. It faces its continental essence in the form of a ring woven with shapely and stout mountain ranges; while in the direction of the sea it sketches and builds a strong anchor - the Halchidiches - as if holding Europe against its possible sailing away by the waves towards the cold and secluded North, and again, as if drawing the submarinely linked continental plates of Africa and Asia together. Thus, Macedonia is also a tectonic knot in which the geological energy of three continents meet, while it symbolically joins them in its beautiful anchor.
Superficially, under the sea, in terms of civilization and humanism - Macedonia is an architecturally impeccable presentation of "Catena Mundi '. Of course, what Macedonia shares with the three Continents is presented in a reduced, but amplified and enhanced form, out of which the most beautiful and the most typical has been selected - with an obvious tendency to cherish quality, and to eliminate extremity. The philosophic principle implanted in the strategic position, the key task and the corresponding external and internal features of Macedonia in its relation towards the World could not have been formulated in a better way, or at a better place than - right here. The greatest synthesizer of sciences, the spiritual inspirer of Alexander the Great's legendary enterprise, aiming at a creative unification of the whole world known to man at that time, and author of the chief principle of any theory of harmony - could not have been born in any other part of the world than the one in which those features had already been accomplished. The only thing missing was the philosopher in order to comprehend, understand and express these basic truly existing features in exactly the same harmonious and binding manner, (still irresistible even to the greatest minds of Europe, Africa or Asia also logically implying the whole world's gratitude for Aristotle's manner of exposition) so that the key to the whole mosaic of disintegrated worlds is found in the link called Macedonia.
Born in the uppermost part of Macedonia's anchor in the hills of the Halchidiches, Aristotle created a theoretical and scientific opus which in the monumental philosophic accomplishment summed up and claried the objective geographical, cultural and psychological features of the land and the people who have been assigned such a titanic and noble task to put and keep the Worlds together!
The principle of harmony, represented in the idea that exaggeration is not a good thing, is positively expressed as a formula according to which "the best is always presented as a median". This philosophic aspect is perfectly incarnated in all the features of Macedonia's nature and could most successfully be affirmed by its detailed examination.
To take a trip to the mountains of Macedonia is like taking a trip to the most beautiful and the most valuable essence contained in the Mountains of the World excluding extremity, as a feature which is aesthetically destructive and would crush the sublime code of harmony. The northwest chain of Macedonia incorporates the ring of one of the most complete and most harmonious mountains in the world: Sar Mountain!
Any significant
quality attributable to the world mountains could definitely be ascribe to
Sar Mountain too! Toppointed, vertiginously steep rocks, on the threshold
of horror, rise high in the blue sky, resembling the Alps, the Andes, the
Pamirs, or the Himalayas. Unlike these gigantic ridges, however, Sar
Mountain never steps over the borderline which, as its hallmark, makes
Macedonia so recognizable: nothing steps over the human dimension.
The flowery meadows like galaxies made up of "crumbs of the starry gold" as Trakl would put it are as beautiful as mountain meadows could possibly be. Since this is a matter of beauty, the "human dimension " is even intensified. The formula of Sar Mountain is such that one receives "less from the horror, and more from the beauty and the excitement! " A mountain itself, as it is, cannot do without a certain amount of horror and danger; nevertheless, that amount has here been reduced to the point required to keep us aware of our being on a magnificent, grand and indomitable mountain. As for the beauty of Sar Mountain, it has been brought down to the opposite level: as much as the human soul can possibly take!
What it in fact means is that the pasture grounds along with the already mentioned galactic wreath of flowers are larger than anywhere else in Europe! According to leading European encyclopedias, the compact grassy area on Sar Mountain is unrivaled to any mountain range in Europe. This fact has only been implicitly rendered so far. Facts about other mountains have not been compiled in a final comparative project. Still, the implicit in this case becomes explicit for the sake of praising the harmony of this mountain.
Sar Mountain may boast of numerous other, less known, or again implicit qualities. For instance, although its maximum height lists it among the medium height mountains, Sar Mountain rises with its 43 peaks at 2,500 meter high above sea level. To compare: Macedonia has twice as many peaks as Slovenia, for example, which is an Alpine country and approximately the size of Macedonia. This is one third more than the total number of over 2,500 meters high peaks in former Yugoslavia.
Estimations of a
Swiss Alpine atlas point out that there seems to be no other equally long
"Alpine tour" in Europe which would be continuously carried out at a height
above 2,000 meters, as is the case with the ridges of Sar Mountain. Namely,
if one sets out from the domineering and magnificent Ljuboten, one will
not have to travel under this altitude all the way to Korab, i.e. Mavrovo
for at least 80 km! This fact has existed merely as an implicit figure,
because it is never mentioned in the Alpine atlases of the great powers in
this sport. And whoever is well familiar with mountains can only imagine
what delight and infatuation it is for the lone tripper on the peaks to
have 80 km. of celestial path at his disposal, and not once having to come
down below "2,000 m."! Moreover, walking on the high beautiful ridge makes
him aware of the fact that he is actually walking on the very edge of the
"Clasp of the World" !
Outstanding proportionality and harmony can be attributed to anything in Macedonia. It also goes for the peaks of its mountains. Their rising above the supporting ridges is perfectly proportional. Their composition is in accordance with the "golden mean" thus resembling temples created by Earth itself with great love and sense of beauty. The ridges "covers" are ever lofty and magnificent; still, the peaks they support rise above them just enough to strengthen the entire impressiveness of the superhuman power and aesthetic concentration of the whole "complex" without a tiny bit of vanity on the part of the proud peak, with no trace of humiliation on the part of the mighty ridge !
Elegant, as they are, Sar Mountain peaks, as well as all other peaks in Macedonia, are nonetheless higher than what they are normally thought or known to be! Ljuboten's height, for instance, has served as subject matter for a greater number of treatises than a whole range of world-renowned peaks. The peak was recorded on Ptolemy's map, and ever since has regularly been recurring on each map covering this part of the world. Its very name "Ljuboten" was first recorded on a map dated 1692 ("Monte Argentaro Vulgo Igliuboten"), i.e. its name was used before Triglav's name was ever mentioned! However, the height of even this gorgeous peak, which rises at a right angle, has been estimated in what has so far been considered the largest range of the lowest and highest figure: starting with only 1,986 m. on a map dating from 1835 (A. Bone), and up to 3,050 m. on the military geographic map of the Austro-Hungarian Kingdom of 1877 (K.u.K. Militaer geographische Institut,1:300,000).
The difference is more
than a kilometre, i.e. 1,064 m., which, as a fact, can undoubtedly be
included in the Guinness Book of Records. What is even more interesting is
that the estimation of the military cartographers of a rather pedantic
Austro-Hungarian team was the highest figure ever officially recorded in
geographic maps, related to any peak on the Balkan Peninsula! What is also
worth mentioning is that leading cartographers and geographers got
extremely interested in this impressive and harmoniously pointed peak. In
the period following the K.u.K. map even they, however, despite their great
knowledge and the utterly strict and supervised conditions of measuring,
ended up with huge differences in the final figure mainly between 2,500 and
2,900 m., Jovan Cvijic, for example, having done some measuring for several
days in 1890, eventually settled for the final figure of 2,740 still 241 m.
more than the present one: 2,499 !
The reasons for these drastic differences among geographers, who had until then, argued about centimeters, have not yet been explained. A curious point is that they have remained quite certain that there has been no fault whatever with their measurements. Another similar dilemma is related to the height of Korab. This beautiful "Boat Sailing over the Sky", with sharp and broad peaks as if the boat had covered the masts with its half rolled sails, its green flanks making their way through the white froth rising up to the masts! - stirred the public of what was then Yugoslavia. However, on 2 May, 1953 an Alpine group from Tetovo had, under supervised conditions, measured 2,884 m.; more than Triglav! After lengthy discussions, the estimation of the army turned out to be 2,764 m. and this estimation was accepted without reason for any further discussion.
A common feature of the general configuration of the Macedonian mountains is the outstanding harmony and dynamic beauty of the logical way in which they stretch, as well as the aesthetic refinement of the silhouettes of their edges. Still, there are subtle differences between them too, which give every mountain its own unique individuality. The highest ones, for instance, can hold glaciers, have numerous high-mountain lakes (over 2,000 to 2,400 m.), have attractive verticals which take one's breath away and are idealfor complex Alpine expeditions. Lesnica, for example, located in the central part of Sar Mountain, offers several Alpine directions ranging from 600 800 meters, vertically pointed towards the chasm; while Solunska Glava, 2,541 m. high, raises its rocks along a virtually continuous vertical for an entire kilometre! Its "supporting pillars" are Jakupica, Dautica and Karadzica, each of which is a mountain range of mysterious beauty and a variety of temptations.
This particular peculiarity of Sar Mountain, i.e. its continuous ascent to 2,000 m. virtually everywhere, is shared by other mountains which form the northwest chain of Macedonia's relief. The powerful Korab, tied like a wonderful frigate to an admiral's ship, is followed by Desat with its two pointed peaks: Velivar (2,375 m.) and Krcin (2,345 m.) its ridge is solid and straight as a horseback and is at every step higher than 2,000 m. !
Over Debar Field yet another mountain rises: Jablanica, whose ridge is higher than 2,000 m. for approximately 50 km. while the highest part, located in its very center, is 2,257 m high. Proportion is evident here too; two side cupolas, 2,135 m., rise at either side of the highest ridge, at almost identical distance.
Rising between the two unforgettable, shiny, radiant lakes, Galicica confirms the truth of the formula "beauty + height". Geographically its highest peak is 2,288 m. high, while on the territory of the Republic of Macedonia it is 2,251 m. high again in the ridge, which is around 50 km. above the contour of 2,000 m.
Baba Mountain, with
its ancient wisdom, is capable of seeing its grandchildren, its people, and
the whole area, from its "home". Having provided them with all they need
for life and beauty, it rises into a beautiful peak: Pelister! It sweetly
echoes, with a guttural voice, like an alpine carrier pigeon thus enabling
"Grandma" to greet her numerous generations of grandchildren with her sweet
gentle voice.
With its zenith at 2,601 m., and a few peaks above 2,400 m., this mountain, along with the others, complies with and fulfills the high ideal of the Macedonian mountains.
Kajmakcalan, nicely balanced upon the hills, with great effort shapes itself into a pointed cone, and culminates into an ascended leap into the sky 2,512 m! One of the most mysterious Macedonian mountains, Kozuv, follows with its own leap and through a series of crags reaches the point of 1,800 1,900 m.: it exceeds the limit of 2,000 m., i.e. 2,171 m., with its peak Zelenbeg.
The chain supporting the eastern half of the Macedonian Apple is almost identical with the western one. While the latter has been hallmarked by height and sublimity, the former can boast of its playfulness and tameness. This part rises 1,400 m. above Kozjak and German's peak Modra Glava, then conjoins with the high meadows of Osogovo. These bloom at the height of 1800 m., on Kalin Kamen, and then quite gently and unnoticeably rise up to Carev Vrv and Ruen 2,085 m.,2,252 m. ! Vlahina Mountain sticks to the beech abundant and flowery Kalin Kamen, mainly between 1,800 and 1,932 m. at Kadiica!
The Malesevo Mountains descend a bit lower in proportion with Kozjak and German about 1400 m.! But let us forget "meters" for a while! Forests, forest springs, meadows typical Heideggerian "forest tracks" and sudden exciting views through the corollas to a distant green hill, covered with greenery. Ograzden, pointed and slightly more introverted, only increases the dynamics with its 1744 meter peak strengthening the whole body of the mountain which climbs upwards in a single swing, towards the blue sky!
The final move in this magnificent range of mountains which fortifies the central zone of "Catena Mundi", thus preventing it from being torn apart by the strong centrifugal forces which hold continents together, has been carried out as an audacious and sculpturally daring enterprise: Belasica! Steep and sharp as a rampart, it gives the impression of being too slender for such a pressure as a high gently twisted weir! Rising above 1800 m. with areas exceeding 2000 m., Belasica is a masterpiece in terms of both substance and function. Nevertheless, it lives the rich and mysterious life of a typical big mountain.
The Mountains of the inner ring make up the dynamic counterbalance and give extra weight to the outer mountain range. A central, powerful and concentrated point is the peak Solunska Glava where a range of three mountains is concentrated. Between this point and the external edge, right in the key points of the mechanical pressure, several stout and beautiful mountains are located: Bistra! The gorgeous peak Sokolica! And Megdanica where eagles share their ground with thermic pillars, rising higher and higher! Next is the range of Osoj, Suva Gora and Dobra Voda all the way from to Kicevo! Thin, and then wide, and then narrow again constantly rising up to 2062 m. !
And the
Krusevo Mountains! Busova Mountain open and wide, with dark and sound beech
forests, with springs and flying falcons that brace their wings against the
wind! Suva Mountain, Golesnica in the central northern part; Plackovica and
Golak in the part known as the "other side of the strong coil which has
turned Catena Mundi's relief into a land of beauty, harmony and unbreakable
inner force"; and the shapely hills of Ilinska Mountain, Plakenska Mountain
and Bigla, compose the quick and rough sketch of what could be called "The
Philosophy of the Macedonian Mountains".
The land in which the Worlds unite contains everything that is contained in the worlds! As a geographically extremely clearly defined entity which could serve Giuseppe Mazzini as an anthological illustration of the thesis that God knew what he was doing when he allotted living areas to people and nations and named them geographically as mountains, rivers, seas Macedonia really distinguishes itself with every essential feature of the world's relief. Apart from mountains, there are plains plateaus, ravines, springs, rivers and waterfalls, sea and lakes. Climatically, certain areas are much like Tibet - wide waves of the Sea of grass; others are like the arctic regions, or the Alpine peaks covered with silvery ice. Olive orchards, unending strings of grapevines like in the south of Italy, or Greece, or Morocco. Deserted, secluded, open spots like in Middle Anatolia, as yellow as a xeranthemum, as clear as the midday sound of a distant, remote flute! And real jungles, in a dark, cool shade... "If one sees today's day, one has seen everything!", says Marcus Aurelius. True, provided one has spent that day in Macedonia!
Plants, Animals, Birds, Fish
The famous huge plane tree in Ohrid used to hold a whole coffeeshop with three tables within its trunk. A very similar gigantic specimen of this noble tree used to stand on Middle Vodno, in Skopje, for a long time. Two of the three magnificent black pine trees in Kratovo still impress those who see them or touch them for the first time.
If it is true that a thousand people are as fast as the fastest among them (which is true!) then the story about Macedonia's trees and animals, birds and fish should begin with at least one extraordinary example.
Among the beech trees, with which the Macedonian mountains are overgrown, (virtually all the way up to 1,500 1,600 m. above the sea level, of course, with varying size of the forest areas, the quality and the density of the forest), a group of beech trees sovereignty rise right below the mountain hostel "Ljuboten" at a height of 1,400 m. Amid the plain wherefrom the famous "Sweet Fountain" comes forth, until the year 1990 six beech trees "The Ljuboten Giants" rose from strawberry bushes and raspberry bushes.
The diameter of the largest one which reached the height of the human chest was 3.3 meters. Its circumference was over 9 m. and its height was no less than 55 60 m. ! But, in vain it was cut down! The log's base, overgrown with blackberries and raspberries, is hidden and known only to those who knew of this magnificent creation of nature. I go there at least once every summer and measure it twelve stocking feet (my size) pay my respects to it, and recall the unforgettable sight and image of its strength and grand beauty. I feel grateful for having had the opportunity to admire it for at least fifteen years out of the possible four hundred!
All the trees from
the Old Continent can be found in Macedonia, while its flora comprises a
considerable number of plants which are endemic for the Balkan Peninsula as
a matter of fact, some of them, exist in no other place but Macedonia. Of
those which stand out as being specific in certain features, a particular
distinction should be made between fir tree and the juniper tree (abies
alba; picea abies). Namely, despite the general conviction that the areas
between Jelak and Lesnica (the central range of Sar Mountain) are covered
with fir trees, because the name itself also suggests it, the fact is that
the trees in question are juniper trees, picea abies. The simplest ways to
distinguish between these closely related and evidently similar trees is by
looking at their cones: the cones of the fir tree stand on top of the
branches, pointed toward the sky; whereas the cones of the juniper tree
hang in clusters, pointed toward the ground. Beautiful fir forests can be
found on the northern slopes of Stogovo. High above the nice mountain
village of Brostica, at the spot called "Cam"s, there is a thick fir
forest, with a wonderful specimen growing on the rocks, with a cold spring
of light drinkable water below. The terrain above Mavrovo, in the direction
of Bogdevo and Brooded, is also covered with fir forests containing ancient
powerful trees overgrown with soft green moss.
The mountain pine (pinups mungo), locally known as "dzindzere" is undoubtedly the Balkan champion regarding the height at which it grows: in the area around Solunska Glava the densely interwoven "height addicted" pines virtually reach the height of the mountain's top 2400 m. This is astonishing if one has in mind that at this latitude deciduous trees stop at the limit of about 1,500 1,600 m., while evergreens stop at 1,800 2,000 m. Endemic sorts especially the famous "molika" forests, also known as "fir pine" (pinups peuce), are the main ornament of Pelister, while the "female" endemic and related counterpart, known as "munika" (pinups heldreichii), is frequently found in the region above the upper flow of the river Pcinja, particularly between the village of Bozovce and the steep rocks of Crn Vrv near Jelak. The tree known as "foya", exceptionally decorative and mystically calm, adorns the only lake island in Macedonia an imperial memento of Czar Samoil's days the marvelous Golem Grad (Great City). To a lesser extent, remnants of "foya" can be seen around Valandovo and Demir Kapija, and the mid flow of the river Crna. The fact that this tree originates from Tibet, and that, apart from Tibet, Macedonia is the only other place where it exists in its own independent habitat, nicely proves the thesis that Macedonia is after all the "Clasp of the Worlds" !
Similar unique qualities of Macedonia's soil and the richness of its Nature (in both senses), is also illustrated by the plane tree (platanus) which has been separately preserved in relic communities in several places along the river Vardar, and in the Dojran region. It, too, has an Asian origin. Moreover, a kind of box tree (buxus sempervirens ma.) grows only in the crevices of the river Treska, and, to a lesser degree, on the steep slopes of the Pcinja, and around Veles. The gentle "yellow marrow" (celtis tourne fortii) grows only on the island Golem Grad (Great City) surrounded by the Prespa Lake. Plants similar to this one can only be found in Asia Minor! Black hornbeam and ash woods are found near Brezno, Sar Mountain, while a subtype of the European Turkish oak (cerris) "ostrogun" (quercus macedonica) is located in the region of Bistra and Stogovo, around Debar.
Plackovica is covered with magnificent beech forests, one of which is so thick and dark (even on a sunny day), that it has been named "Black forest"! A kind of a maple tree grows on the sheltered spots with long-lasting snow, in the region of the sub-Alpine silicate exposures, reaching the height of 2000 m., but only on Karadzica, Stogovo and Pelister, above Irajcino! Although the Macedonian soil appears to be fertile for anything that could grow on any other soil with similar climate, disregarding the botanical gardens, certain imported fruit trees grow as successfully as in the best and most favorable places in the world: the apple is one example especially the apples from Tetovo and Resen!
The mountain flowers
of Macedonia do not lag behind the big trees, either. A sort of lily
(tulipa scardica) can be found only on Sar Mountain and the high mountains
of Macedonia; the celandine (saffron crocus scardicus), another tertiary
relic of Sar Mountain, is found only in the region of Dobra Strana and
Causica, starting from the measureless plateau meadows at 2000 m., reaching
the very peaks at 2 651m.! Medicinal herbs have been preserved in Macedonia
in abundance, some of which are so densely concentrated in one spot that
they can hardly be found in any other place, e.g. gentiana lutea known as
hellebore (lincura). The beautiful blue blossoms of the "crow's feet"
(gentiana verna), as a pure glacial relic, are especially frequent in the
ranges of Sar Mountain Kazani, Crn Vrv, Sarska Kruna and Ceripasino. Along
with the star-like flower (silence acaulis) and the celestial herald, they
rise up to the sky to the peaks 2,702; 2,712 and 2,747 m. high, as a unique
arctic ecosystem at this latitude, capable of surviving the most extreme
conditions!
Moist grounds seem perfect for the beautiful herb which gives the hot winter drink bearing the same name: salep. In addition to the high ever-flowing and nonfreezing mountain springs, the aromatic grass "moravka" also rises from thick turfs especially above the village of Duf, in the region of the rounded and calmly beautiful peak Morava as well as with the "bone-breaking grass" particularly effective in healing fractures (northecium scardicum), which grows over large areas covering Idriz, Rupa and Nicpur, i.e. Brooded. All these are cognate endemic varieties, except for thyme (as a subtype of thymus ochmianus, Ronniger) which is endemic i.e., it can be found in only one place in the world, and that is the can r. yon of the river Treska, and, moreover, only in the range of seven kilometres !
Some Macedonian mountains are covered with endless "carpets" of primrose, xeranthemum, or white, blue or saffronlike yellow cleanliness, stretching up to the very tops, thus making them ideal spots for the human soul, rather than simply sharp, pernicious ridges, as peaks normally are. Such harmonyan control of nature in Macedonia make for pleasant miracles. Even springs, for instance, can be found on the peaks themselves as is the case with Sred a Vraca, at 2638 m.
Such a peak can only be described as perfect: firstly, because it is a peak; secondly, because it is all overgrown with flowers; thirdly, because out of those flowers the best silvery, cold spring water comes forth gurgling ! Nature could not have endowed man with greater beauty, kindness, nor could it have created a more exalted feeling! Virtually any kind of impressive and rare representatives of fauna could also be found in Macedonia. Its specific climate, the relative isolation and inaccessibility of its mountain regions and the abundance of food have all played a part in the existence of the beautiful examples of bears, lynxes, wolves, chamois, wild boars...
In January 1994, one of the best hunters from Polog, high above the village of Pirok, found a dead bear possibly wounded in the previous autumn - whose cranial quotient was higher than the European (and for this kind of bear, even the world) record! The length of this impeccably stuffed head's skull, with all the teeth preserved, was 403 mm., while the highest recorded figure was of a bear shot down in Romania was 388 mm. The fur of a wolf hunted near Ljuboten, was as big as an on average grown lion, the size of which is far beyond the official world record held by an Alaskan wolf. Its length was 161 cm. (without the tail), and 212 cm. (with the tail). The "monster from Ljuboten" was 189 cm. without the tail (an on average grown lion: 170 190), and 244 cm. with the tail.
The Macedonian lynx is
one of the last representatives of this species in Europe. Magnificent
examples of them, with their paws' strength and their height, almost reach
the size of a large leopard like the lynx killed in 1976 in the village of
Tearce, or the one which had long been stuffed in the Museum of Natural
Science in the Skopje Zoo, and which was, unfortunately, killed in the
flood of 1962.
Many great horns of stags, deer, chamois and mouflons have been hunted on the hunting grounds in Macedonia. Several wild boars, especially in the Reka district between Debar and Korab had tusks whose size and weight approached the registered maximum for this game.
The impressiveness of these trophies convincingly, although melancholically, demonstrates the magnificence of those animals: the mighty bear, standing on a spacious rock in the wild green ocean of grass and the peaks above Crno Ezero; the big wolf, standing in the winter sun, with its sparkling fur and its cunning fiery yellow eyes, placed where the thin line between the sky and the earth is, at the sharp edge of the vertiginous Kozja Karpa. Nothing can be compared to the hunter's delight when a herd of up to sixty chamois emerge on the edge of the ridge. Running, they sketch their beautiful body contours against the deep blue mountain sky; while high up, under their feet, the thick sharp grass spreads the dying rumble of their gallop or the delight of spotting an idyllic early spring image of a mother lynx surrounded by its incredibly fast and awfully beautiful offspring. The mother lynx is still and happy, while the young ones playfully enjoy the exceptional moments of perfect harmony and happiness; or yet another delightful opportunity of secretly and unobtrusively watching a mottled viper shedding its skin, unable to protect itself, bare and anxious.
Furthermore, many
beautiful and rare birds adorn the sky over Macedonia. The eagle, which can
hardly be seen in Europe (there are approximately 100, at most) on the
Pyrenees, Corsica, to a lesser extent in Greece Epirus, and maybe a few
birds in Albania also known as "the bearded eagle" (Gibaetus barbatus
aureus), is still present in Macedonia. An incomparable gorgeous view is
offered on a breezy sunny day: the huge bird, whose wing span is three
meters, totally immovable, as if painted on the blue surface of the
mountain sky, hovers against the powerful air currents. The white feathers
of its belly turn yellow, finally becoming quite dark on the edges of its
open wings. Tiny feathers make two black shades around its eyes, which
emphasize its pride. The dry mountain wind whistles through its wings time
has stopped! still, the bearded king high up would not move! Slightly bent,
it then gets hold of the heat of the thermic pillar, bends to the right and
makes a circle. It makes one persistently stare at it. At such distance and
height it looks like an Andean condor leaving for good.
.
The highest of the
three towers over Brezno and Tri Vodi renders a breathless view to the most
prized bird "the gray falcon" falco peregrinus! making nine circles which
gradually decrease in size, so that in the last one the bird is only about
three meters away from the center. A possibly present spectator in the
center, bewildered and almost unreal, feels as though he himself had become
a falcon, too, joining the falcon in its flight towards the rounded peaks
of Kuc Baba, Crni Vrv and Causica!
The eagle's hovering against the ethereal currents can be related to the vibrations of the immobile and beautiful "merdzan" trout in the clear running waters of the river Radika near Nicpur, the Tearecka River, the Brajcinska River, the Kadina River... the trout being an endemic sort in some of the mountain rivers in Macedonia. The strong gushes of quick water only caress the aerodynamic body adorned with red, gold and yellow spots, while the goldish fins vibrate. Birds really are "fish in the high", whereas fish are "birds in the deep".
The huge catfish in the river Vardar and Lake Tikves, about which fishermen have been telling legends, can reach a weight of up to 400 kg. (or so they say); the eels, which from the river Drim enter Lake Ohrid; the seething silvery surface of Lake Prespa, at the most beautiful lake beach, near Konjsko Vakaf; shoals of fish spawning under the glittering moonlight all this comprises the opulence and variety of the ichthyological map of Macedonia. Out of all the fish, the Prespa carp stands out as an "exceptional specimen". In the autumn of 1993 it was caught at about 10 p.m. and shoved into a car trunk, wherefrom it was taken out the following day at 8 p.m. When shoved into a bath tub, it still showed signs of life; and in five minutes it could already swim when the tub was filled up with water. A day after, this "indestructible golden knight of the Macedonian lakes" was taken back to the lake in a bucket of water, and was set free.
In addition, the domestic animals of Macedonia also share the traits of the genuine center of the worlds. Locally well known and very ordinary, is the "female buffalo" (bubalus bubalus). The farthest point to which this docile and strong domestic animal can be seen is Pristina some 80 km. to the north of Macedonia.
The popularly
called "Sarplaninec", the dog of Sar Mountain has rightly been considered
by cynologists as the most accomplished of all world breeds, labeled as the
"ideal dog", or the "king of canines", and contains the blood traces of the
three great continents. It has acquired and maintained the Asiatic
ingredient from the Tibetan giant "Sang Ki" (in Europe known as the
"Tibetan mastiff"); the "African blood" from the huge "Aggressive Assyrian
dog", in which traits of the Ethiopian mountain dog can be found, too; and
the best of the European breeds from the Illyrian Molos.
As an authentic and autochthonous breed mostly represented in Macedonia, the "Sharplaninec" is the symbol and perfect reincarnation of Macedonia's noble task to unite the worlds, while still establishing its own identity! It crowns this great task which has, understandably enough, been assigned to Macedonia, and to which all the wonderful specimens of its flora and the beautiful representatives of its fauna contribute.
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