Valley Bridal Dress
from the village of Krivogashtani,
Prilep region
The Valley National Dress of the
Prilep region is found in most of the
settlements of the Prilep valley, i.e. in the north-east part of the
Pelagonia plain.
It is similar to the dress in the Bitola valley and
forms a complete whole with it, except for certain minor differences in
the nuances of color and the embroidery technique. In the
Prilep valley
dress flame red and blood yellow are the dominant colors, while in the
Bitola valley dress the dominant colors are blood yellow and black. The
costume of this area (Prilep valley area) is one of the most decorative
and richly ornamented, especially abounding in metal and bead ornaments.
A slight Byzantine influence makes itself felt via the old "boljar"
costume, particularly in the manner of veiling and the decoration of the
clothes. This costume is one of the most over elaborate in Macedonia,
especially the bridal dress. The brides wear:
- Smock "golema", almost entirely covered with
embroidery on the sleeves (the decorations used are "vrteshkki"
circles). The fronts and the "okolizhot" - the border round the skirt,
are embroidered with "shapkite" - formalised blossoms and "kopito poli" -
horseshoes.
- Cuffs knitted of multi-colored woolen thread
and worn on the arms below the elbow.
- Upper garment of broadcloth called "valanka"
ornamented with embroidered facings with gold and yellow thread. The
seams are trimmed with tufted fringe and braid.
- Cuffs of white handwoven linen, entirely
embroidered with a drawn pattern of whirls and trimmed with beads, gold
thread, and silver coins.
- Girdle plaited from black wool.
- "Chulter", an apron which is a special part
of the bridal dress, folkweave, patterned with "kolci" (rhomboids),
"krshchinja" (crosses), and trimmed at the hemline with red tufted
fringe, gold thread ribbon, and braid.
- "Potkolchelniche", an ornament worn below
the girdle at the back, i.e. under the "kocelj"
, from with it received it's name (potkochelniche means under the
kocelj). This is made of beads and trimmed with old silver coins.
- Buckles with clips, metal ornaments for the
belt. Silversmith's work.
- "Kopec", a silver ornament to go under the belt, trimmed with old silver
coins with seven rows of chains.
- "Uskolec", a beadwork ornament worn at the
sides of the belt.
- Scarves trimmed with old silver coins and
edged with gold thread ribbon, industrially manufactured.
- Necklace in the form of a stomacher, trimmed
with old silver coins, mounted with broadcloth.
- Flame-colored socks, knitted and patterned
with formalised blossoms.
- Slippers, made of cowhide - homemade.
- Fes, a head dress with rows of old silver
coins - "tunturici", which hang down the sides of the face. The silver
boss is ornamented with various colored stones and trimmed with
pendants. Above the fes there is a garland of spruce.
- White broadcloth towel decorated with
embroidery and two rows of old coins.
- "Kocelj", a hair decoration made from black
twisted woolen fringe. It is worn hanging down the shoulders.
Valley Bridal Dress Gallery
Mariovo Mens's Dress from the village of Stravina,
Bitola region.
The Mariovo Men's Dress is made of white linen similar to the Valley
Dress of the Prilep valley, and makes a unit with it. It is made of
handwoven linen, white or black broadcloth, richly decorated with
embroidery and various other decorations. Some elements of the old Slav
costume have been preserved in it, for example the "aba", smock, leggins,
valanka, etc. The costume is composed of:
- "Aba", an undershirt made of handwoven
folkweave woolen material called "aba".
- Smock of thick handwoven linen, embroidered
on the front, sleeves, and skirt.
- False cuffs, woolen knitted sleeves worn on
the arms below the elbow. The wristbands are decorated with "sopci" i.e.
half hexagons or octagons.
- Breeces of white broadcloth which have a
special cut.
- "Kemer", a griddle of twilled flame - colored wool with strips and
"eyelashes".
- Black broadcloth waistcoat, ornamented with
flame colored trimmings. The front is embroidered and decorated with
multicolored buttons.
- Socks, knitted from white wool, decorated
with natural patterns, net, ribbing, pearl stitch, and amulet, a
triangular shape with spots in it.
- Garters, folkweave and stripped, decorated
with "eyeslashes". These fasten the socks.
- Slippers with straps, made of cowhide by a
shoemaker.
- Cap of black astrakhan and velvet, made by a
tailor.
- Knife, called "zhrenche", with a chain and a
sheath of horn, made by cutler.
Mariovo Men's Dress Gallery
Macedonian Cultural and Historical Resource Center
Last Modified: January 14, 1997
